METALS, DIAMONDS, GEMSTONES AND RING STYLES

Q: What materials are used in your rings?

The four most frequently used metals in our rings are: 18K yellow gold, 14K palladium white gold, 14K red gold, and sterling silver. For our standard and specialty metal combinations Jim also uses platinum, palladium 950 and iron. We currently have 6 standard metal combinations and 5 specialty metal combinations. Jim's mokume has between 2 and 4 different metals laminated together.

Q: Can I request a custom metal combination?

We work in 11 metal combinations, which gives a wide range of possibilities for color and look. Currently we are not making billets of custom metal combinations that are not one of the 11 metal combinations we work in.

Q: I like a certain color of gold, can I have that color gold be more predominanat in the ring?

Each ring is uniquely patterned and there is not a way to guarantee which metal will appear more predominant in the ring. If you wish to ensure the dominance of one color metal over the others we would need to make a special billet with more layers of that metal. There is an additional special billet charge for the extra time and labor required to make a custom billet.

Q: Why do you use sterling in your rings?

We use sterling silver so that we can etch it back a little to give a texture to the pattern. Since sterling silver is the whitest of all metals, it provides a good contrast to the colored golds. Rings made without sterling silver will have a smooth, matte finish. Rings that have sterling silver in them can be made with either an etched finish or matte finish.

Q: What are the combinations of metals that can be used in a ring?

We work in 11 metal combination which gives you a wide range of color choices. Our six most requested metal combinations are the following (the letters in the () are the codes we use for that metal combination): (A) 18K yellow gold, 14K palladium white gold, 14K red gold and sterling silver; (B) 18K yellow gold, 14K palladium white gold and sterling silver; (C) 14K palladium white gold and sterling silver; (E) 18K yellow gold, 14K palladium white gold and 14K red gold; (H) 14K palladium white gold, 14K red gold and sterling silver; (W) palladium 950 and sterling silver.

Q: Why do you use a combination of 18k and 14k golds in the mokume gane rings?

For the best color 18K yellow gold is used in the mokume. For durability and color 14K gold is used for the red and white colors of gold, however 18K can be used if requested. We do not use 14K yellow gold either in the mokume laminate or for rails or liner.

Q I want to have platinum in my ring; what colors of gold or other metals can I use with it?

Currently sterling silver and iron are the only other metals I am using with platinum. If you want to have platinum as a part of your ring but want more color you may want to have platinum rails and/or a platinum liner with a gold and silver mokume band.

Q: I would like rails on my ring. Can I also have a narrow band?

Rails are typically 1-2mm wide each; therefore on a 4mm ring that would leave only a 2 mm wide band of mokume. A 2mm wide band of mokume would not show the pattern very well. Rails are not added on rings less than 5mm in total width; preferably bands with rails should be at least 6mm wide in order to best show the mokume band.

Q: Why would I want a liner?

Liners are most often an aesthetic choice. Liners can be in any color or karat of gold or in platinum, but are not needed for durability or comfort. Some people have very sensitive skin and may have reactions to sterling silver or 14k gold; if you have this type of sensitivity you may want to have an 18k gold or a platinum liner for your ring. If you wish to have a ring with with millgrain rails or in a channel you need to order a ring with both rails and liner in the same metal. Rings with iron in the mokume do require a liner.

Q: What kind of stones can be set in your rings?

Any kind of stone can be set in the mokume gane rings. However many stones are not suitable for everyday wear due to their delicate nature. Due to the stresses of everyday wear, it is recommended for rings worn daily or very frequnetly to use harder, more durable stones such as diamonds, rubies and sapphires.

Q: I already have a stone or want to buy my own stone, will you set it for me?

I can set a customer supplied stone or assist you in finding a stone through reputable dealers. The cost of setting a center stone starts at $75.00. plus the cost of the stone (if I obtain the stone). The actual price will depend on the size and quality of the stone and complexity of the setting.

Q: Do you have more photos and information that I can see?

We have a packet of information that includes a photo CD with over 90 images of mokume rings and mokume jewelry. If you would like a copy of this CD and other information please call the office at 877-408-7287 (North America) or 360-756-6550 to request a copy.

PURCHASING RINGS OR JEWELRY

Q: Do I need to purchase directly from you or can I purchase through a store?

You can purchase directly from us or through one of the fine stores that exclusively carry Jim's work. If you would like to order from us please call us: 1-877-408-7287 (in North America) or 1-360-756-6550. If you would like to order through a store please see our Retailers page for the list of stores and galleries that carry Jim's work. If you go to a store or gallery and see Jim's work there we ask that you order through the store. All of the stores can order any ring we can make, even if they do not have it in stock.

Q: How long before I need my ring should I order my ring?

Our turn-around time varies depending on the time of the year (Spring and Summer are our busiest times) and the type of ring that is ordered (rings with stone settings take longer than bands). Our average turn-around time is 6 to 10 weeks (generally 6 to 8 weeks for rings without stone settings and 8 to 10 weeks for rings with stone settings). We recommend checking with us as to our current turn-around time and ordering as early as possible. Rings that have a custom design (usually those involving a CAD drawing) require a longer turn-around time; we recommend allowing 12 to 16 weeks. We provide you a one=week window for the ship date at the time you order.

Q: Are you able to rush an order?

If you need your ring in less time, please let us know and we will see if we can work it into our schedule. There is a rush fee of $100 per ring for rings shipped in less than six weeks from the order date

Q: Do you ship internationally?

We not only ship internationally but we have stores in Australia, Canada, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and the U.S. Virgin Islands. However due to restrictions by our shipper, our insurance carrier and/or some countries, there are some countries to which we cannot ship our rings and jewelry; please check with us on availability to your country of residence. Shipping and insurance charges are computed after you place your order.

Custom/duty/tax charges are the responsibility of the client; please check with the appropriate local authorities for information.

Q: Can I visit your studio?

If you would like to see Jim's work in person we do take appointments to show the work. Our regular hours for appointments are between 10 am and 4 pm Monday through Friday and 11 am to 2 pm on Saturdays, though other times may be arranged. We do not give tours of the studio. We are in Bellingham WA, about 90 miles north of Seattle. We do have two dogs and two cats that are with us (in case you are allergic).

Q: I would like to see a ring in person but do not live near a store that has Jim's work. Can you send me a ring or two to examine?

If you would like to see a ring in person there is the option of our sending you one to three rings to examine. We require a credit card number with which to place a hold/authorization for the amount of the rings. We also charge for our shipping and insurance costs. We require you return the ring(s) via insured US Registered Mail, mailing them within seven days of your receiving them. If you would like to have a ring(s) sent to you, please call the office to make the arrangements