FAQs
The following information will answer Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ's) about our mokume. If you have any questions that have not been answered on the website, please do not hesitate to contact us. You can reach us by phone (877-408-8287) or e-mail at tbin@mokume-gane.com.
Information is grouped by category. Please click on the question for the answer to drop down.
Purchasing Rings or Jewelry
- Q: Do I need to purchase directly from you or can I purchase through a store?
- A: You may purchase directly from us or through one of the fine stores that exclusively carry Jim's work. If you would like to order from us please call us: 1-877-408-7287 (in North America) or 1-360-756-6550. If you would like to order through a store please see our Retailers page for the list of stores and galleries that carry Jim's work. If you go to a store or gallery and see Jim's work there we ask that you order through the store. All of the stores can order any ring we can make, even if they do not have it in stock.
- Q: How long before I need my ring should I order my ring?
- A: Our turn-around time varies depending on the time of the year (Spring and Summer are our busiest times) and the type of ring that is ordered (rings with stone settings need more time). Our average turn-around time is 6 to 10 weeks (generally 6 to 8 weeks for rings without stone settings and 8 to 10 weeks for rings with stone settings). Check with us as to our current turn-around time and order as early as possible. Custom designed rings require a longer turn-around time; allow 8 to 14 weeks once you approve the CAD design. We provide you a one-week window for the ship dates at the time you order.
- Q: Are you able to rush an order?
- A: If you need your ring in less time than our current turn-around time, please let us know and we will see if we can work it into our schedule. There is a rush fee of $100 per ring for expedited service.
- Q: Do you ship internationally?
- A: We not only ship internationally but we have stores in Australia, Canada, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and the U.S. Virgin Islands. However due to restrictions by our shipper, our insurance carrier and/or some countries, we cannot ship our rings and jewelry to certain countries. Please check with us to ascertain if we can ship to your country of choice. We calculate shipping and insurance charges after you place your order.
Custom/duty/tax charges are the responsibility of the client; please check with your local authorities for information.
Metals, Diamonds, Gemstones and Ring Styles
- Q: What metals are used in your rings?
- A: The four most frequently used metals in our rings are: 18K yellow gold, 14K palladium white gold, 14K red gold, and sterling silver. For our standard and specialty metal combinations we also use platinum, 22K yellow gold, palladium 950 and iron. We currently have 6 standard metal combinations and 5 specialty metal combinations. Jim's mokume has between 2 and 4 different metals laminated together.
- Q: Can I request a custom metal combination?
- A: We work in 11 metal combinations, which gives a wide range of possibilities for color and look. We have a standard ratio of metals for each of our metal combinations. If you wish to vary that ratio to emphasize a certain metal we charge $500.00 for the special billet. Currently we are not making billets of custom metal combinations that are not one of the 11 metal combinations we work in.
- Q: I like a certain color of gold, can I have that color gold be more predominant in the ring?
- A: We cannot guarantee which metal will appear more predominant in the ring. If you wish to ensure the dominance of one color metal over the others we would need to make a special billet with more layers of that metal. There is an additional special billet charge for the extra time and labor required to make a custom billet.
- Q: Why do you use sterling in your rings?
- A: We use sterling silver so we can etch it back a little to give a texture to the pattern. Sterling silver, the whitest of all metals we use, provides a good contrast to the colored golds. Rings made without sterling silver will have a smooth, matte finish. Rings that have sterling silver are available either etched or non-etched.
- Q: Why do you use a combination of 18k and 14k golds in the mokume?
- A: Each metal used has specific properties that contribute to the signature look of Jim's mokume. 18K yellow gold provides the best color. We use 14K palladium white gold and 14K red gold for their color and durability. Use of 18K palladium white gold requires a special billet. We do not use 14K yellow gold or 18K red gold in our mokume laminate or for rails or liner.
- Q: I want to have platinum in my ring; what colors of gold or other metals can I use with it?
- A: Sterling silver and iron are the only other metals we use with platinum. If you want to have platinum as a part of your ring but want more color you may want to have platinum rails and/or a platinum liner with a gold and silver mokume band.
- Q: I would like rails on my ring. Can I also have a narrow band?
- A: Rails are typically 1.2mm wide each; therefore on a 4mm ring that would leave less than 2mm of mokume. A 2mm wide band of mokume would not show the pattern very well. We do not add rails on rings less than 5mm in total width; preferably bands with rails should be at least 6mm wide in order to best show the mokume band.
- Q: Why would I want a liner?
- A: You do not need liners for comfort or durability. We use platinum, 14K palladium white gold, 14K red gold and palladium for liners, though we also use sterling silver as a liner for sterling silver/iron rings. People who have very sensitive skin and may have reactions to sterling silver or 14k gold should have a liner in platinum, palladium or 18K yellow gold. If you wish to have a ring with millgrain rails or in a channel you need to order a ring with both rails and liner in the same metal. Rings with iron in the mokume require a liner.
- Q: Will the mokume scratch?
- A: Over time and wear the finish on a ring changes and takes on its individual patina. The environment and the wearer's body chemistry change the patina of a ring. All precious metals scratch from regular wear, which is considered normal and part of the personal patina of a ring. There is a transition time from when your ring's finish changes from the matte finish we ship the rings with to the personal patina your ring acquires from day-to-day wear. Etched rings show scratches less than non-etched rings.
- Q: How do I know the ring will fit? Can the ring be resized if needed in the future?
- A: We send a set of metal gauges to verify the ring size once we have an order. If needed, our rings can be resized. If you notify us within ten days of receiving your ring we do not charge for the first resizing. If you need resizing at a later time we charge a small fee as well as shipping and insurance. We provide a cost estimate when you contact us.
Plain bands are the easiest rings to resize. We can usually resize plain bands (no rails, liners or stone settings) up or down up to two sizes (depending on the starting size) without major difficulty. We can also resize rings that have rails, liners, and/or stone settings.
Please do not send rings to us without notifying us in advance. We resend gauges to verify the ring size prior to having the ring returned to us.
- Q: If I damage my ring who should fix it? How much will it cost?
- A: These rings are quite durable and rarely need repair. If you damage your ring it is best to contact us for repair. Most jewelers are not familiar with mokume and could further damage your ring in trying to repair it. Cost is determined on a case-by-case basis.
- Q: What kind of stones can be set in your rings?
- A: We can set a wide variety of stones in our mokume rings. However many stones are not suitable for everyday wear due to their delicate nature. Due to stresses of everyday or frequent wear we recommend using harder, more durable stones such as diamonds, sapphires and rubies.
- Q: I already have a stone or want to buy my own stone; will you set it for me?
- A: We can set a customer supplied stone or assist you in finding a stone through reputable dealers. Please contact us for instructions on the most secure way to send your stone to us.
Size and type of stone as well as the type of setting determine the setting fee.
Miscellaneous
- Q: Do you have more photos and information that I can see?
- A: We have a packet of information that includes a photo CD with over 100 images with descriptions of our mokume rings and jewelry. If you would like a copy of this CD and other information please provide us with your postal mailing address. You can contact us by either calling the office at 877-408-7287 or email us at tbin@mokume-gane.com.
- Q: Can I visit your studio?
- A: If you would like to see Jim's work in person please make an appointment to visit us. We do not give tours of the studio.
We prefer to schedule appointments between 10 am and 3 pm during the week, though other times can be arranged.
We are located approximately 90 miles north of Seattle in Bellingham, Washington.
- Q: I would like to see a ring in person but do not live near a store that has Jim's work. Can you send me a ring to examine?
- A: If you would like to see a ring in person there is the option of our sending you up to three rings to examine. We require a credit card number with which to place a hold for the amount of the rings. We also charge for our shipping and insurance costs. We require you return the ring(s) via insured US Registered Mail within seven days. If you would like to have a ring(s) sent to you, please call the office to make the arrangements.
